Sawse Madame XXX or Quince Sauce for a Goose

Standard

Quince (also called conne, coynes, quyncis, coyces) is technically in season. Its still hard to find in Ontario even though they can grow here. They are picked after the first frost and you want to use them when they are green with a few brown spots and not when they are a bright, tight green. They should smell fragrant when you bring them to your nose.

Sauce Madame is an amazing quince based sauce for a goose. It combines stuffing and goose drippings to make the perfect sauce to go with a goose. You can probably use frozen quince instead of fresh but quince jam or paste will not work as a substitute. There are a few additional Sauce Madame recipes that use pear than quince but that makes me sad because quince is awesome.

Here are a few links to roasting goose:

This recipe makes more sauce than there is goose. Its worth it and amazing.

SAWSE MADAME. XXX. Take sawge. persel. ysope. and saueray. quinces. and peeres, garlek and Grapes. and fylle the gees þerwith. and sowe the hole þat no grece come out. and roost hem wel. and kepe the grece þat fallith þerof. take galytyne and grece and do in a possynet, whan the gees buth rosted ynouh; take an smyte hem on pecys. and þat tat is withinne and do it in a possynet and put þerinne wyne if it be to thyk. do þerto powdour of galyngale. powdour douce and salt and boyle the sawse and dresse þe Gees in disshes and lay þe sowe onoward. Forme of Cury (1390)

Ingredients:

* 1 goose [I brined for 24 hours, add salt to recipe if you don’t]
* 1 large quince, chopped, core removed
* 1 bosc pear, chopped, core removed
* 8 grapes, cut in half if large
* 5 cloves of garlic, chopped
* 2 branches sage, chopped
* 2 branches parsley, chopped
* 1 tsp hyssop
* 1/2 cup jelly from beef bone broth
* 1 cup white wine (I started with 1/3 cup and added for taste)
* fat and drippings from goose
* 1 tsp galingale
* 3 tsp powder duce mix

Directions

  1. I used the romertof instructions (listed above) for my goose. It starts with soaking cooker for 2+ hours before you start.
  2. Place goose inside clay cooker bottom, after making sure there are no bags of organ meats inside cavity.
  3. Mix quince, pear, grapes, garlic, sage, parsley, hyssop together. Stuff mixture inside goose. Gently place stuffing into bird. No need to sew it shut since you are not probably not spit roasting. Cover bird with top of cooker (if goose doesn’t fit completely inside move bird to large roaster and follow other goose cooking suggestions).
  4. Place roaster into a cold oven and then turn oven on to 420F. Set timer for 2 hours and walk away.
  5. Once two hours have passed, and your house smells amazing, remove bird from oven, and remove lid from cooker.  Remove stuffing from bird and gently pour off the drippings and fat from the bottom of the cooker. If bird is crispy and browned you can shut oven off otherwise return empty bird to the oven to brown without the cooker lid.
  6. Put roasted stuffing and the drippings into a sauce pan with beef jelly, wine, drippings and spices. Simmer together on medium low for 30 minutes until you are ready to serve goose. Mash or blend sauce to make it smooth before serving.
  7. Cut goose into smaller pieces and serve with generous amounts of sauce.

 

Blood Cake for Halloween!

Standard

I was looking through past blog articles for a recipe and discovered that in the Beans and Thickeners article I mentioned that blood was also used as an egg replacer but I’d leave that recipe to Halloween.

Well I said I’d do it so here I go.

Blood pancakes (also known as Blodpannekake, Veriohukaiset, Blodpannkaka) are a traditionally served food from all over Northern Europe. The modern blood pancake recipes I found have molasses or a savoury component such as onions added to the mixture. I couldn’t find an early English recipe for griddle fried blood cakes even though they are certainly a traditional food.

The following recipe is an unsweetened baked blood cake recipe from Forme of Cury.  I’d serve this simple cake with syrup, fruit compote, or with fried onions, as is done with the above traditional pancakes. The recipe is similar to bannock, but without any rising agents.

When cooking with blood to substitute for eggs use a ratio of 1/3 cup of blood for one egg, or 1/4 cup of blood for one egg white. I used pre-clotted blood from Asian grocery, if you have fresh blood add oatmeal 1 tbsp at a time until the dough is thick not runny.

Blood can be used as a colouring agent in recipes or as the sticky ‘egg wash’ for breading fish.

Also, blood is supposed to be easy to digest.

Pie with pig’s blood 
Take blode of swyne, floure, & larde idysed, salt & mele; do hit togedre. Bake hyt in a trappe wyt wyte gres. Forme of Cury, 14th century

Ingredients:
* 1 cup pigs blood, strained
* 1 cup flour
* 1/4 cup lard
* pinch of salt
* 1/4 oatmeal
* bacon fat to grease pan

Directions
1) Preheat oven to 350F
2) Mix together blood, flour, lard, salt, and oatmeal. Kneed together with hands so that batter is an even burgundy or pink throughout.
3) Grease cake or pie pan. Pour batter into pan then press it flat.
4) Bake cake for 45 minutes, until bread is dry to touch, its hard to see ‘browning’ with such a dark cake.

Confession: I used gf flour so I could try it. Its really good. Is there nothing lard can’t make delicious?

Poetry as Inspiration for a Picnic

Standard

From Erotic Cuisine: A natural history of aphrodisiac cookery by Ravicz I found this delightful, a 14th Century passage (pg 67):
Under the green leaves, on the soft turf beside a chattering brook with a clear spring near at hand, I found a rustic hut set up. Gontier and Dame Helen were dining there, on fresh cheese, milk, butter, cheesecake, cream, curds, apples, nuts, plums, pears; they had garlic and onions and crushed shallots, on crusty black bread with a coarse salt to give them a thirst. They drank from a jug and birds made music to cheer the hearts of both lover and lass, who next exchanged loving kisses on mouth and nose, the smooth face and the bearded. (referenced as Marie Collins & Virginia Davis, pg 81 and attributed to Book of Hours (Summer) by Philippe de Vitry.)

The menu is:

  1. fresh cheese
  2. milk
  3. butter
  4. cheesecake
  5. cream
  6. curds
  7. apples
  8. nuts
  9. plums
  10. pears
  11. salad of garlic, onions, shallots & salt
  12. crusty black bread
  13. salt
  14. Wine, and
  15. kisses

Its sort of a lop-sided menu. Its from a book of hours, mostly the passage is to illustrate ‘Summer’ and not really a menu. I did make the menu many years ago as a picnic for around 10 people and it was fun.

Allium Family Salad
* 4 cloves of garlic, peeled, minced
* 1 large onion, peeled, chopped small
* 2 shallots, peeled, chopped small
* 1 tsp salt
* Crusty black bread
* Wine

  1. Mix garlic, onion, shallots and salt together.
  2. Serve by the spoonful on black bread, with wine.

Not kidding about the wine. The dish is very thirsty making.

Marie Bones

Standard

You shall eat no marrow, whether it is of birds or other animals, as it causes dizziness in the head and a bad memory, so that you forget things which you heard or read earlier. Das Kochbuch des Meisters Eberhard

There you have it. I am reminding you of this 15th Century wisdom because I worry about your health, obviously, not because beef soup bones have gone from $2 for a large bag to $4 for four small bones since the cooking with marrow fad began.

Marrow bones, also called Mary or Marie bones, is a fantastic source of calorie dense nutrition.

If you boil the soup bones instead of roasting you can carve combs, dice, needles and other things out of the bones. If you put vinegar in the water the bones become really white too.

To extract the marrow from bones, you cover the bones with water and simmer them until the insides of the bones turn to jelly, or slide out, from solid white. The broth left behind is great for soups or pottage or where ever broth is required, just add salt and dilute with water.

If a recipe calls for marrow it isn’t quite right to replace with butter. Lard is a closer substitute but lacks the depth of marrow.

Marrow Tarts
Make fine paste, and put in the white of one egg and sugar, and when they are made in little coffins set them into the Ouen vpon a paper a little while then take then out and put in marie, and then close them vp and pricke them, and set them in again, and when they are broken serve them with blanch powder strewed upon them. The Good Housewife’s Jewell (1596)

Ingredients
* Pastry for 12 small tarts, top and bottom
* 3/4 cup of beef marrow
* 4 tbsp raw cane sugar
* 1 tbsp ginger, ground

Directions
1) Preheat oven to 350F. Place tart bottoms in oven for 15 minutes. Remove then let cool.

2) Once tarts are cool place 1 tbsp of marrow in each. Cover each tart with more pastry and slice a hole in the middle, or use a pastry lattice, and place tarts in oven. Bake for 25-30 minutes until pastry is golden.

3) Combine sugar and ginger together. Liberally sprinkle sugar mixture on the hot tarts. Serve hot.